French Moments Newsletter

French Moments Newsletter

The Croissant Conspiracy: A Buttery Investigation into Flaky Deceit 🄐

You liked the baguette investigation? Brace yourself. This time, we’re going after France’s most beloved breakfast — and the flaky deception hiding beneath the crust.

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Pierre Guernier
Aug 06, 2025
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Bonjour!

Last week, I lifted the crusty lid on a story that stirred quite a reaction: the secret life of the French baguette.

Messages poured in — nostalgic comments, shared disappointments, and heartfelt reflections from readers across the globe.

It turns out I wasn’t the only one to suspect something fishy behind the flour.

But the baguette was just the beginning.

Today, I turn my (hungry) eye to another national treasure — one that's just as iconic, just as flaky, and possibly even more betrayed: the humble croissant.

I wish I could say this was a sweet story.

šŸ•µļøā€ā™‚ļø In recent years — from our time living in Paris to a recent trip through Haute-Savoie — I’ve tasted croissants that simply didn’t taste right.

Bland interiors. Crumbly crusts. Sometimes, a whiff of oily disappointment instead of butter.

And always the same question whispering in my mind: what happened to the croissants of my childhood?

In today’s post, I follow the buttery trail — from vintage memories to modern-day shortcuts, from deep-freeze factories to valiant old-school bakers.

If you’re not yet a paying subscriber, you’re currently reading the free introduction.

To unlock the full investigation — including flaky shapes, frozen dough, fake ā€œartisanalā€ signs, and a croissant-lovers’ rebellion — consider joining as a paid member.

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Merci for reading, and bon appĆ©tit… or maybe not!

French Moments Newsletter is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.


Part 1 – A Buttery Disappointment… or Something More Sinister?

It all began with a baguette.

Or rather, with the disappointment of biting into one.

Last week, I shared an investigation with my readers about the curious case of the not-so-artisanal baguette.

It was a personal story turned national mystery — and, to my surprise, it resonated.

Many of you wrote back with your own frustrations: crusts too soft, crumbs too dry, suspiciously identical loaves from Paris to Provence.

A conspiracy of crust, I called it.

But what if I told you… the croissant situation is even worse?

No — c’est catastrophique might be more accurate.

Yes, that golden, crescent-shaped icon of French breakfast glory.

The flaky pastry that — in our memories at least — crackled under your fingers, released a warm puff of buttery air, and melted on the tongue like a Parisian sunrise.

That croissant.

Well. It’s not what it used to be.

And I’m not the only one saying it.


Fond Parisian Memories?

I first noticed the decline years ago, when we lived in Paris.

I chalked it up to bad luck or an off day at the local bakery.

But it happened again.

And again.

Then again this summer — in a village in Haute-Savoie, no less, where I was hoping for fresh mountain air and even fresher viennoiseries.

The scenery? Breathtaking. The croissants? Disappointing.

Flat, dry, soulless. Some had a crust that disintegrated like puffed corn.

Others were hollow or bland. Not bad enough to start a revolution, perhaps — but certainly enough to start an article.

That’s what this is.

An article. An investigation. A flaky, golden-crusted journey into the murky world of French croissants.

If the baguette was your introduction to the quiet betrayal of French bread, then the croissant will take you deeper.

Because here’s the secret: many of those buttery crescents you see behind the glass, even in so-called artisan bakeries… are frozen.

Pre-made. Factory-produced. Shipped in on pallets and baked on-site like supermarket pizza.

That’s not a rumour.

It’s a business model.

So if you’re ready, come with me.

Let’s lift the veil.

Let’s find out what really happened to the croissant.

Our daughter AimƩe is enjoying a delicious (and authentic!) croissant while living in Paris.

Part 2 – When Croissants Lost Their Soul

From Paris to Haute-Savoie: the same disappointing bite

At first, I thought it was me.

Maybe my tastebuds had changed. Maybe memory had painted those childhood croissants in sepia tones — warm, crisp, buttery masterpieces that never really existed.

But the pattern kept repeating.

From a boulangerie in Paris’s 15th arrondissement…

To a charming bakery near Colmar in Alsace…

To this summer’s holiday in a sleepy Haute-Savoie village near Annecy…

The croissant was wrong. Consistently wrong.

You know how you can tell when something is pretending to be real?

These croissants looked the part from a distance. Golden tops, vaguely crescent-shaped, slightly puffed.

But bite in… and everything fell apart.

Literally.

Sometimes the crust crumbled like papier-mâché. Sometimes it was limp, like a wet napkin.

The inside? Dry. Lifeless.

A hint of margarine, if you were lucky. Industrial cardboard, if you weren’t.

And this wasn’t just the occasional mishap. It had become the norm.

But why?

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