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The Rooftops of Paris: A Battle Between Beauty and Survival

The Rooftops of Paris: A Battle Between Beauty and Survival

From Zinc to Controversy: The Battle to Preserve Paris’s Skyline in a Changing World

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Pierre Guernier
Oct 14, 2024
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French Moments Newsletter
French Moments Newsletter
The Rooftops of Paris: A Battle Between Beauty and Survival
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Paris rooftops (somewhere in the 3rd arrondissement)

One of my favourite things to do when I play tourist in Paris (and yes, even locals love to play tourist now and then) is to climb up one of the city’s many monuments and admire the view from above.

Whether it’s from the top of the Eiffel Tower, the heights of the Arc de Triomphe, the towers of Notre Dame, or the dome of Sacré-Cœur, there’s something undeniably special about seeing Paris from these lofty perches.

It’s a view that takes your breath away—not just because of the height, but because you’re reminded of exactly where you are.

The view from Montmartre

This is Paris, and nowhere else on Earth looks quite like it.

And what makes that fact so clear?

It’s not just the landmarks that dot the skyline—the Louvre, the Panthéon or the Dôme des Invalides.

No, it’s the rooftops.

The sea of grey, blue, and silver that stretches as far as the eye can see, all thanks to one little material: zinc.

The rooftops of Paris, with their shimmering metallic surfaces, crisscrossed by chimneys and punctuated by charming dormer windows, are as much a part of the city’s identity as the Seine itself.

It’s this view that whispers, "You’re in Paris."

View from Montparnasse Tower

The Rooftops of Paris: A Love Affair With Zinc

But these rooftops aren’t just there for the aesthetics, though they certainly do their job in that department.

There’s something captivating about them that has enchanted not only visitors but Parisians themselves for centuries.

That metallic glow, those neat little chimneys standing proudly in rows, and the elegant curves of the œil-de-bœuf windows—they all add up to something uniquely Parisian.

These roofs are not just a symbol of the city’s history; they’re a reminder of its charm, its craftsmanship, and its enduring allure.

Yet, beneath the beauty, a debate is brewing.

These rooftops, which have long been admired from every vantage point, are now at the centre of a much larger conversation—one that pits history against modernity.

You see, while the zinc roofs of Paris may be iconic, they’re also facing new challenges.

As the city grows and adapts to the pressures of the 21st century, the very roofs that have defined it for nearly two centuries are now part of a fight for survival.

A fight not just for the rooftops themselves, but for the couvreurs-zingueurs (the skilled roofers) and ornemanistes (ornamentalists) who have shaped them.

As France prepares to defend the craft of these artisans before Unesco in a bid for intangible cultural heritage status, a bigger question looms: how can we preserve this historic skill while adapting to the hot summers and modern living?

But before we dive into that debate, let’s take a step back and explore how these zinc rooftops came to define the City of Light in the first place.


The Origins of Paris’s Zinc Rooftops

Like many things in Paris, the story of its rooftops begins with a need—a need to accommodate a rapidly growing population during the 19th century.

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